AWARD-WINNING chef John Besh opened "The American Sector" November 6.

Veteran of the Kitchen

Posted November 19, 2009

NEW ORLEANS CHEF John Besh has a full plate these days, and that’s just the way he likes it. As owner of a group of award-winning restaurants (August, La Provence, Lüke, Besh Steak, and Domenica), he’s already made a delicious imprint on the Big Easy. He’s left a charitable one too, putting a public face on the city’s recovery after Hurricane Katrina by organizing efforts to feed relief workers, being one of the first chefs to reopen after the storm, and hosting fundraisers across the country. This fall he published My New Orleans: The Cookbook, and currently is in the midst of a nationwide book tour.

You might guess that this soft-spoken culinary guru and father of four boys would need a military-like focus to manage his life. You’d be right. While serving as a Marine in the first Gulf War, Besh honed his concentration, motivation, and survival skills; ones that have come in handy in his post-military life too. “My service gave me a perspective that helps me as a chef–to get out there and hustle as much as possible,” he says.

Besh’s latest venture blends his passion for cooking with his deep respect for the veterans who have served in our armed forces. On November 6 he opened The American Sector, a restaurant that is part of the expansion of The National World War II Museum (formerly known as The National D-Day Museum), an institution that celebrates the honor, courage, and sacrifice of the men and women who fought on the battlefields and on the home front. For Besh, it was a natural fit. “The museum is a national treasure,” he says. “I can think of no better reason to have a museum than to pay tribute to a generation that made such incredible sacrifices. The fact that it’s in my own backyard is an amazing privilege.”

The American Sector’s menu is a far cry from the dehydrated MREs (Meals, Ready to Eat) Besh remembers from his time in Operation Desert Storm. He was inspired by the themes of nostalgia and comfort. “We had to bridge generations,” says Besh. “When I’m in the museum, I see grandfathers leading their grandchildren through the exhibits, sharing their stories. It’s impossible not to be moved.” He turned to dishes served in diners in the ’40s and ’50s, things such as slow-fried chicken, macaroni and cheese, po boys, and potpie. “The food that makes people smile and remember, but I’ve updated everything,” he explains. Thus when you order grilled cheese and tomato soup, the bread will be brioche; the cheese, artisanal; and rest assured the soup didn’t come out of the can it’s served in (decorated with a label of the restaurant’s logo).

For choices with kid appeal, Besh convened an internal focus group–his sons. No surprise then that the restaurant includes a soda fountain with shakes and ice cream floats. And children will be sure to go for his take on a pb&j, paired with homemade chips and a made-from-scratch interpretation of Cracker Jacks, all packaged in a tin lunch box with a paratrooper action figure. Call it Besh’s own version of a happy meal.

Enjoy one of Besh's recipes shared from The American Sector restaurant.

JOHN BESH’S CHICKEN FRIED STEAK  (from The American Sector)

Serves:  2 people 
1 flank steak, approximately 1 pound
2 cups buttermilk
2 cups flour
1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
1 quart of chicken stock
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil (for pan frying)
salt and pepper to taste

Butterfly the flank steak, by slicing down the long end with the grain. Open the flank like a book. Sprinkle thyme, rosemary, salt, and pepper. Roll the flank steak tightly into a cylinder and tighten with plastic wrap and butcher’s twine. Let the flank sit in refrigerator overnight. Remove the twine and plastic wrap and season with salt and pepper.

Preheat oven to 300 degrees.

In a heavy-gauged braising pan on high heat, sear the flank steak in olive oil on all sides. Cover the flank with the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Cover and place in the oven. Use a probe meat thermometer and wait until it reads 140 degrees, approximately 3 hours. Set aside and allow to cool slightly. Remove the flank steak from the pot and reserve the cooking liquid. Slice the flank steak into medallions. Dip into buttermilk, then dust with flour. Pan fry until golden brown. 

Gravy  

2 ounces butter
2 ounces flour
1 teaspoon chopped garlic
1 teaspoon chopped shallot
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
3 slices of bacon, roughly chopped
1 cup mushrooms, sliced (any kind) 

Place chopped bacon, shallot, and garlic in a sauté pan and cook until tender, approximately 10 minutes. Add mushrooms and maintain cooking until the mushrooms are tender. Add butter and allow it to melt and then add the flour to make your roux.

Whisk in the reserved stock and bring to low simmer for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Finish with thyme and reserve. Keep warm.

Place 3-4 medallions in the center of plate, one slightly on top of the other. Pour about 2 tablespoons of gravy across the top. Take a sprig of rosemary, and put across the top as a garnish.

To visit The American Sector: 945 Magazine Street, New Orleans, LA 70130
for reservations: 504/528-1940
open daily for lunch and dinner, 11:00 a.m. till

The recipe is provided by John Besh and has not been tested by seethegood.com.

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